The grand piano sampled by Spectrasonics is the Yamaha C7 concert grand. For us, the Acoustic Pianos, Clavinets, Key Bass, and Electric Pianos are the standouts. There are over 500 preset sounds suitable for just about every genre of music you can think of between all categories. The 36 featured keyboard instruments are split into the following categories: This process took many years to complete, and the results are stunning. Spectrasonics curated 36 of the world’s most sought-after keyboard instruments and expertly restored them to pristine condition before sampling them with incredible detail. It’s arguably the best-sounding piano VST on the market, but it’s by far the most versatile. Keyscape by Spectrasonics is our top pick for many reasons. I won’t get into all the nuances of EQing, but reducing the mud around 250-350Hz helps too.Image credit: Spectrasonics Check & Download Try putting an EQ after the piano (routing only the piano to it, no other sounds) and try increases around 5k-10k to get it brighter. OTOH, if you’re comparing the piano to instruments that are already muddy but they sound OK to you (like a muddy organ), it could be anything anywhere in your PA or your PA speakers. If all your other sounds are bright enough in your PA, then the problem is coming from your piano or your piano’s signal path. I don’t own it but Pianoteq should sound good. And I do EQ most of them, not only for matching but to get them to sit in the mix or to fit a particular song or style. I’ll add the caveat that I’m not primarily a keys player, but I run a few piano patches through C3 in our sets, and I run a ton of other instruments, from synths, organs, guitars to sax and brass sections. an electric isn’t really a factor these days… sample players and high quality VSTis changed all that (but if we’re talking about pro recording at 96K then I’d choose a great, real piano and great mics/pres etc.). First, from a practical and gigging standpoint, reproducing an acoustic instrument vs. There’s not really enough info here to know exactly what’s going on. One other thing- I also have an option of running my keyboards through a pair of Electro-voice Zx1 speaker rather than the sound system. I’m also using CFX lite (Yamaha grand) and this does provide a brighter sound than the Pianoteq patches. In a live setting it’s been ok in the past but now I’m not satisfied. Do you suggest any tweaks such as EQ, particular piano software apps, etc? I use Pianoteq instruments and love the sound for headpones and recording. I’m wondering if others have encountered this. I know some of this is because while the acoustic piano can sound great in headphones, it’s sourced from an acoustic, not electronic sound- i.e., it’s hard to reproduce the original acoustic sound in any electronic setup, but maybe more so because of our less than optimal PA. This was particularly noticable on Ain’t No Sunshine where the first verse is just piano and vocal. Last night I noticed that my piano sounds were pretty muddy in the mix, not sounding nearly as vibrant as the other sounds I was pumping through the system. It produces good sound for many of my keyboard patches such as EPs (ounge lizard), synth leads and pads, and organ (Hammond Xb3). While we don’t have an awesome sound system, it suffices for vocals and (electric) drums. I’ve played in live bands over the years and after a pause of a couple, I’m playing with some friends for low-key gatherings- family birthdays, block parties, etc.
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CyberLink PowerDirector Ultimate 12-13-14-15-16-17 FULL: CyberLink PowerDirector Ultimate. The only way to get the power light indicator to turn on is to completely unplug the monitor, let it sit ant then plug it back in. If I go to press the power button off and then on, the power light indicator will not come back on. To summarize how the monitor is acting: when I plug in the monitor, the power light will come on, but no images will appear on the monitor, and the blacklight does not turn on - just a powerless screen. If I had to guess I would say the blacklight stopped working, which seems odd as I've had the monitor for 12 days now and hadn't had any indication anything was failing. As mentioned, the monitor just seems to not come on in any capacity. I have unplugged all cables, held the power button down for 8 seconds (as suggested here) and plugged back the power cable and display port. I have tested the monitor using HDMI as well as display port. I've tested the monitor on two separate computers, to ensure it was not an issue with the pc/video card. I've plugged these power cords into separate outlets to rule that out. I've used two separate power cord (both supplied by Dell monitors) to rule out it being a power cord issue. I've used two separate displayport cables to rule out the cable being at fault. The power button seems unresponsive in that after unplugging the monitor, and plugging it back in, the power light will come on, but if I go to turn off the monitor and then turn it back on, the power light no longer will come on as if it does not even understand the input. I am not even at the point where I get the "no input source" nor can I use any of the buttons on the monitor to bring up the OSD menu. The issue: the monitor will not turn on in any capacity. I read previous posts on this forum and around to try and figure out the cause. I did some digging to see what the issue may be/what the solution could be. I was unable to access any menu on the monitor and even the power button seemed unresponsive. At this point, not even the backlight of the monitor was turning on. Figured it may be "asleep", so I rebooted the computer again - no luck. Turned off my computer to go to dinner and came back later, turning my computer/monitor back on.Ĭomputer booted up fine, monitor did not seem to turn on. Was using my computer/display throughout the day without any issue. If you want to do low power prototypes/measurements you should check out our guide on low power.I've brought this issue up in a separate thread but figured I'd make a new post to see if anyone has had this issue or knows a solution. However, the voltage regulator on the EE-NBIOT-01 is not optimal for low power. Looks like you’ve connected + on the Otii to VCC on the EE-NBIOT-01 (a natural thing to do). For other readers it is correct to connect TX to TX and RX to RX. The screenshot is quite low resolution, so hard to be sure, but from what I can see you’ve connected it correctly. You can also try just sending AT when testing, and it should reply OK back if the serial is working. If you click the button on the EE-NBIOT-01 it will reset the modem, and you should see some messages in the UART log (if it’s set up correctly). It usually appears a few seconds after booting, and the 0 means no firmware over the air available. Did you also set the «Digital voltage level» to 3.3V? The «Digital voltage level» also affect the TX-/RX-pin.īy the way, it looks like you’ve been able to receive a message from the EE-NBIOT-01: +UFOTAS: 0,1. Would be nice if they could include TX data in the UART log. If I’m not mistaken - the command is sent even though the UI does not reflect that. I don’t think you need to connect DGND when powering it from the Otii, but I don’t know the Otii that well. We have been able to hook up the EE-NBIOT-01 to an Otii Arc and send/receive AT-commands. As you can see on the image below, the UART log shows RX log from the modem. The board is powered and modem working, however no text commands are sent when attempting to send using the UART (when entering a command into “Text to send…” and typing enter, the text is simply highlighted. New project created with LOGS - enable UART baudrate 9600. OTII to EE-NBIOT-01 for communication via jumper cables, TX on OTII to TXD on EE, RX on OTII to RXD on EE, DGND on OTII to GND on EE. OTII to EE-NBIOT-01 for power by banana cables from + and - with HM6410 clamps to male-to-female jumper cables (sc13051 cables) to GND and VCC (EDIT: this has later been changed to 3.3V instead of VCC). Now I want to send AT-commands with the OTII while measuring.Ĭomputer-to-OTII by supplied usb to micro-usb cable. I have verified that I am able to communicate with the modem on baud rate 9600 (using a TTL to USB cable and CoolTerm for serial communication). I want to measure the energy of a modem on a board called EE-NBIOT-01 v1.1. They are all relatively the same.Īs mentioned before, the old school style metronomes were (and in some places still are) very popular. Therefore, don’t get too caught up in various features of different metronomes. Now, in the end it matters far less what metronome you use, and far more that you actually intend on using it. For example, in 4/4 you’d say “4 notes per measure, quarter note gets the beat”. You may sometimes also hear the bottom part referred to as “getting the beat”. In a 4/4 time signature, there are 4 notes per measure, and those notes are 4 (quarter) notes. One of the most common time signatures you’ll see is 4/4. The bottom number on a time signature represents the type of note that gets the beat. The top number of a Time Signature represents the number of beats that a measure will need to have to be complete. You will see the time signature located right next to the Clef in a music staff: Time SignaturesĪ time signature is a musical notation symbol that states the overall rhythm of a piece of music. Before I can get too much further into how a metronome works, you should understand the basics of Time Signatures. These metronomes worked great, but were not very user-friendly and had some unfortunate drawbacks. You’ve probably seen old metronomes before: the little wooden pyramid with a big stick in the middle that sways from left to right. However, if you don’t take the time to develop that bond, you will be much more prone to missing notes, fatigue and just generally inconsistent guitar playing. With metronome work you are constantly focusing on accuracy and tempo and over time those 2 things will mesh beautifully. If you aren’t using a metronome you won’t be able to keep time well and you’ll find yourself trying to rely on the time-keeping abilities of other musicians around you - and that is a recipe for disaster.įinally, you won’t be as consistent of a guitar player. A metronome’s sole purpose is to keep time, much like a rhythm’s purpose is to reinforce the tempo of the song. Second, your rhythm playing abilities will suffer. If you can’t accurately measure those things, you are doing yourself a disservice. The metronome is an incredible asset for all guitar players to assess their comfortable tempos and measure progress. Questions, comments, or feedback? Get in touch anytime using the contact form at the bottom of the page.First, neglecting the metronome will lead to slower progression in your guitar playing abilities. Focusing on getting the tempo correct from the start and holding it is crucial and this is a great tool for that.” –tempobob The room we rent has a projector hook up so we display the app for all to see.” –Andrewpasc “Really useful tool for band rehearsal.Next to a tuner on my phone this is the most useful music app I have found. “Not only can I see what bpm I usually play my songs in, I can see where I flex the timing in the song.I have actually tested it using professional music software… and it has not been wrong once yet.” –vinyljunkieuk “This app is so quick and simple to use, there’s not really an excuse as to why you wouldn’t use it during practice sessions.” –Laura Barnes of MI-PRO (.uk)Īnd here are some comments from our users:.It’s got nothing but thumbs up!” –Phil Smith of “Drummer’s Weekly Groovecast” (podcast) “After trying it out for weeks now and playing with it everyday, I’m mindblown.” –Richard Ducat of “Drummers I Like” (podcast).Here’s what the experts are saying about Beat Mirror: We designed the interface especially to accommodate low-light conditions, so you can take BeatMirror anywhere! Use the app when you’re practicing, use it with your band, you can even use it at concerts. Let BeatMirror show you when you speed up or slow down-and by how much-and you’ll be well on your way to building some excellent rhythm skills.īeatMirror shows your beats-per-minute (bpm) in real-time on an interactive graph, and you can place markers at key points throughout your songs. BeatMirror uses your device’s built-in microphone to detect the tempo of almost any tune it hears-whether it’s a single guitar part, a drummer going wild, or even a whole band practicing. A metronome can help-but what happens when you turn it off? That’s why we built our newest app, BeatMirror. –Phil Smith of “Drummer’s Weekly Groovecast” (podcast)īut learning to play on beat and stay on beat isn’t always easy. Many amateur musicians speed up and slow down when they get excited or distracted, and nothing kills a song like sloppy tempo. For musicians, a big part of that rhythm is following the groove of the song, which requires some serious playing skill and an attentive ear to make sure the whole band is grooving together. Good music has good rhythm, and good rhythm makes you want to move. There’s a good chance you tapped your foot, bobbed along, or even started to dance. You can see a list of VirtualDJ builds here or you can download the latest version here. Also, make sure that you the latest version of VirtualDJ installed.Make sure that you have the latest drivers and firmware installed from the manufacturer's website.A list of currently supported controllers can be found on the following page: Controllers natively supported by VirtualDJ. Check that your MIDI or HID controller is actually supported by VirtualDJ.If you find that your controller is not working with your computer or operating the software please check the following: To find out how out more, check-out our KNOWN ISSUE: Computers with Intel 11th gen Core i-series CPU's can result in a failed audio or MIDI connection with Serato primary hardware.Q: My MIDI controller is not working correctly or is not being detected NOTE: On some 11th Gen Intel-based CPU Windows computers, some users are unable to connect their Serato primary hardware. Unplug any other audio devices, uninstall or disable any other audio drivers in the Device Manager and remember. Check your computer manufacturer's website and check you have the latest drivers installed.ĭo you use any other audio applications? Have you got any other Audio devices connected to your computer other than your Serato DJ controller? Having other audio devices connected (especially other soundcards/interfaces) can conflict with connected Serato DJ controllers and may result in no connection. Your computer's USB drivers might be out of date. Your computer should then attempt to reinstall the drivers, and once this has finished, the device will show up in 'Sound, Video & Game Controllers' again. Unplug your device, and after 10 seconds, reconnect your device.If you see another version of your device affixed with 'MIDI' please also right click on this device, and click 'Uninstall'.Please make sure that your device appears here, right click on the device, and click 'Uninstall'.Click on 'Sound, Video & Game Controllers'.Just to make sure your device drivers are being uninstalled and reinstalled correctly, follow this process: Reinstalling USB device (controller) driver Open your Serato software and try to connect your hardware.(this is not always necessary, as with some Windows versions there is no option to set a device in this tab) Check the Communications tab to see if you need to set the internal soundcard as the default device.Select your computer's internal soundcard or microphone as the default Recording device.
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